| By Patty Glenn Leander
Contributing Writer |
The National Gardening Bureau was ahead of the times when it declared 2007 the “Year of Cabbage and Kale.” By 2010 kale was being touted for its nutritious, health-promoting properties, by 2011 it was showing up on restaurant menus and by 2012 kale chips were all the rage. And now, after this unexpected and (frankly) unsolicited attention, kale has fallen from its superfood pedestal. Culinary trends for 2013 show that kale is out and cauliflower is in. But for Texas gardeners, kale is not a trend. It may never dethrone collards’ reign south of the Mason-Dixon, but it is a worthy winter staple, adding color and texture to the garden, and culinary flair to the kitchen. Kale is an ideal crop for the cool season that can be direct-seeded or transplanted in September or October when the weather is still warm and its earthy flavor will sweeten after exposure to frosty weather.
CURLY, CRINKLED
Related to other more highly developed forms of cruciferous vegetables such as cauliflower and broccoli, kale is an ancient form of wild cabbage that originated along the Mediterranean coast. It is grown specifically for its frilly and crinkled leaves, and (like collards) it does not form a head. Two species of kale are generally cultivated for consumption and there are several varieties suited for Texas, with curly, crinkled or serrated leaves in shades of deep green, blue-green and purple. The broadest and most available category is Brassica oleracea var acephala; these are the true kales which include ‘Vates,’ ‘Lacinato’ and ‘Redbor.’ Brassica napus may look and taste similar to true kale, yet its members are more closely related to rutabaga. Two familiar varieties from this group include ‘Red Russian’ and ‘Dwarf Siberian.’ All are hearty greens that grow without fuss in the fall, welcoming the cold when it finally arrives. There are also ornamental kales which are edible, but picking leaves to eat would ruin their “ornamental-ness,” plus they are bred for color and leaf shape rather than taste; so best to save the decorative kales for the landscape or plant them as a border or focal point in the vegetable garden. Following are descriptions for several edible varieties that should grow well across the state:
‘Dwarf Blue Curled’ — low-growing, compact heirloom with curly, blue-green leaves. Also referred to as Scotch kale.
‘Dwarf Siberian’ — a quick-growing, hardy and productive heirloom from Russia. Large, ruffled, gray-green leaves are tender and tasty at any stage of growth. Grows up to 18” tall and wide.
‘Lacinato’ — a unique Italian heirloom also known as ‘Cavalo Nero,’ ‘Black Cabbage’ or dino kale. Its slender, upright, puckered leaves can grow up to a foot long but should be harvested smaller for better flavor. Sweet and mild flavor that is very popular with foodies, chefs and heirloom aficionados.
‘Red Russian’ — growing 2–3 feet in height, this heirloom sports serrated, flat leaves tinged with purple veins and dark pink stems. Color deepens when exposed to frost. Grow for baby leaves in less than 40 days. Also known as ‘Ragged Jack.’
‘Redbor’ — often grown as an ornamental or container plant, this variety with frilly, dark purple leaves and violet stems makes a stunning specimen.
‘Ripbor’ — an improved variety with curly, blue-green leaves and a compact growth habit.
‘Vates’ — standard blue-green, curly kale, the one you sometimes see relegated to a garnish at the salad bar. Developed by the Virginia Tech Experiment Station in the 1950s, this is an improved strain of ‘Dwarf Blue Curled’; quick to mature and resistant to bolting in the spring.
KALE BASICS
Like other members of the brassica family, kale grows best in fertile, well-drained soil, with a pH range of 6.0–7.5, though it will tolerate poorer soils much better than heading plants like broccoli or cauliflower. Enrich soil with compost a few weeks before planting and water the soil if the weather has been dry. Kale can be seeded directly in the garden or can be grown from transplants. Either way plant about 12 inches apart to start, and as the plants get bigger, thin to stand 1-1/2 to 2 feet apart. Most varieties will grow 2–3 feet in height and under favorable conditions will reach harvestable size in about 50–60 days. If you prefer to harvest immature leaves for baby greens, plant seeds closer together and harvest leaves as they reach the desired size. Make several plantings in succession for a continual supply.
Leafy greens can usually get by with less sun than fruiting crops, and certainly it’s a good idea to start fall kale under shade cloth or in the shade of a deciduous tree. But once winter arrives when days are shorter and often overcast kale will grow best if it receives at least 4–6 hours of sun each day. If lack of sun or suitable soil is a problem in your landscape, try growing kale in a container where you have more control over both sun and soil.
CULTIVATION TIPS
For the best quality, be sure the plants receive regular irrigation and sidedress with nitrogen fertilizer every 4 weeks to keep them growing vigorously. Once established, kale takes the cold like a champ and it rarely needs protection, with one caveat: transplants grown in moderate, sheltered conditions need to be acclimated gradually to the cold weather. Also if kale has been growing happily in mild temperatures that are forecast to drop below freezing in a short period, it would be prudent to cover plants to protect from temperature extremes, which can cause damage even to the hardiest of plants. A thick layer of mulch will also protect roots and help moderate soil temperature.
Kale is relatively pest-proof, though cabbage worms, harlequin bugs and aphids can sometimes be a nuisance. Knock down worms with products containing Bt or spinosad, handpick harlequin bugs and destroy the eggs, and blast aphids with a strong spray of water. Alternatively cover kale at planting time with floating row cover for protection from these sucking, chewing insects. Because kale is a member of the cabbage family, it should not be grown in an area where other brassicas — broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, turnips, mustard, radishes, etc. — have grown the previous season. Yet another reason to grow some in containers.
HARVEST AND PREPARATION
To get the most from your hearty plants, pick leaves from the outside and allow the interior leaves to continue growing for harvest later. Be sure to wash leaves well in a sink full of water; dirt — and sly little aphids and worms — are very adept at hiding out among the frills. For short-term storage, shake leaves dry and store bouquet-style in a container of water in the refrigerator or wrap in paper towels, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to a week. Sulfur compounds in kale, a component of nutritious antioxidants, can give greens a bitter flavor. These compounds are deactivated by freezing temperatures, which explains the common recommendation to harvest after a frost. Alternatively, wash leaves and freeze them in a zip-top bag for a few days before cooking.
Kale has plenty to offer in the nutrition department, though I don’t care for the use of the term “superfood.” Too often this week’s superfood becomes next week’s forgotten trend. That said, kale is an excellent source of vitamins C, K and A, as well as folic acid, calcium, magnesium and two antioxidants — lutein and zeaxanthin — that are known to protect against age-related eye diseases. In the kitchen kale lends itself to a variety of cooking methods and flavor combinations. It is a nourishing addition to soup, especially those made with beans, chickpeas or lentils, and in the company of cured meats — ham, bacon or sausage — even better. Sliced into thin ribbons fresh kale can be added to slaws, omelets or wraps, but why stop there? Large flat leaves can be lightly steamed and used as the wrapper for a wrap. Kale mingles tastefully with pecans, pine nuts, garlic, lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, cider vinegar, herbs or parmesan cheese. I think you get the picture — with kale in the garden the gastronomic possibilities expand to fit your imagination and personal taste.
