| By Patty Glenn Leander
Contributing Writer |
If you can grow bush beans then you can grow pole beans. And you should! They offer a space-saving vertical growth habit, they have an old-fashioned green-bean flavor and many of the varieties are heirlooms that were grown and consumed by early Texas homesteaders. Pole beans may not sound as glamorous or urbane as the haricot vert French filet beans that are popular today, but they are a treasured part of our gardening heritage. And if you want to enjoy garden-fresh pole beans, you practically have to grow them yourself. Because the pods must be harvested by hand, they are not an efficient crop for commercial production and are seldom found at roadside stands and farmers markets.
BEAN BASICS
The pole beans and bush beans (both Phaseolus vulgaris) that we grow today descended from native species that originated in Central and South America, and their use as a food source has evolved over time. Many of the beans grown by Native Americans were originally used for flour or mashed into a paste, and cultivating beans for tender pods to serve as a side dish for supper was a custom that came to America with European immigrants.
Early garden varieties of green beans were “string beans” that would require removal of the fibrous strings before cooking. Through selective breeding these tough strings have been removed from most bush varieties, though they remain prominent in many of the heirloom pole beans — some say that’s part of their old-time appeal. Pole beans can be wide and flat or round and plump, and they come in shades of green, yellow and even purple. Some varieties can be grown for shell beans or dry beans, but traditionally the pole beans we grow in Texas are harvested before the pods begin to fill out to be used as snap beans. Most varieties mature in 65–75 days, one to two weeks later than bush beans, and if picked regularly they will continue to bear even after bush beans have petered out. Because of this continual production, there is no need to make successive plantings like you may do with bush beans.
All beans, including pole beans, are sensitive to frost and thrive in full sun and warm temperatures. Some pole bean varieties are considered heat tolerant, such as ‘Rattlesnake,’ ‘Romano’ and ‘Emerite,’ but our sizzling summer heat can bring even the toughest pole beans to their knees. You may read in catalog descriptions that a particular bean “bears heavily until frost,” but such a statement was not written with Texas in mind. They may bear intermittently as the temperature climbs into the 90s, but the sweltering days and warm nights of a Texas summer will often cause small, distorted pods or will shut down production completely. However, if you have the space, the water and the inclination to keep them alive through the summer, healthy plants will often bounce back and set pods again once the temperatures shift ever so slightly toward fall.
CULTIVATION TIPS
Pole beans are a dependable crop that can be grown all across Texas as long as you follow a few simple cultural requirements: plant after the soil has warmed, choose a sunny, well-drained location, provide support for the climbing vines, use varieties adapted for Texas, harvest in the right stage of maturity and pick frequently. That said, a few other cultivation tips will ensure a bountiful crop. A layer of compost or other organic matter mixed into the soil prior to planting will improve soil fertility by making nutrients more available to the plants as they grow. If you are starting with poor soil, incorporate 1/2 cup of organic fertilizer per 10 feet of row before planting and fertilize again when pods start to develop. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers as excess nitrogen will result in plenty of foliage at the expense of blooms and pods. Beans prefer a sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5. Though many Texas gardeners do not possess such enviable conditions, steps can be taken to improve less than perfect soil. High acid soils may be amended with lime to buffer the pH, and highly alkaline soils may benefit from the addition of iron sulfate to avoid the yellowing effects of chlorosis. It is best to do this a few weeks before planting. Another option is to build a raised bed and fill with a quality garden soil. If, despite all your efforts, leaves begin to show signs of chlorosis (yellow tissue between green veins), liquid seaweed containing iron can be used as a soil drench or foliar spray. Always follow label directions.
Bean seeds are quick to germinate, usually in less than a week, but germination is impeded considerably in cold soils. Wait until all danger of frost has passed and then sow seed 1–2 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart along a fence or other upright structure. Here in Central Texas we plant in late March or early April, after the soil has warmed to at least 60º F. If you’ve ever observed the germination of bean seeds, you may have noticed that the stem or ‘shoulders’ emerge first, followed by a pair of large seed leaves that unfold as they break the surface. If the soil is too heavy or crusted over, the leaves may be severed as the stem pushes up and out of the soil. Avoid this dilemma and facilitate seed emergence by gently loosening the soil to a depth of 8–10 inches prior to planting and keep the soil most, but not soggy. Regular moisture is important for plant development, especially during bloom and pod production. Avoid overhead watering, which wets the foliage and leaves it more susceptible to disease. If you must water with a sprinkler do so early in the day so that the leaves can dry out before nightfall. A good layer of mulch will keep soil from splashing up onto the leaves, reducing the spread of disease-causing fungal spores. Mulch also conserves moisture, controls weeds and helps keep plant roots cool as the days get hotter. Aphids and spider mites can attack bean plants, but if caught early they can be controlled with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Either of these insect-fighting methods will need to be repeated to make sure you get all of the offenders. Spider mites hang out on the underside of leaves, so be sure to direct the spray of water or soap to the lower leaf surface from underneath the plant.
Like all legumes, beans share a symbiotic relationship with beneficial Rhizobium bacteria. The beans allow the bacteria to live on their roots, and in exchange for this shelter the bacteria convert nitrogen from the air into a form that benefits and nourishes the plants. This type of bacteria is usually found in the soil, especially where legumes have been grown in the past, but if you are growing legumes in a particular area for the first time, it’s a good idea to inoculate your seed with bacteria to ensure its presence in the soil. If your local garden center does not carry inoculant, it can be purchased through most seed catalogs. It is a natural and organic product that looks and smells like dirt, but remember that it is full of live bacteria. So it should be stored in a cool, dry location and used before the expiration date. To apply the inoculant, sprinkle lightly onto moist seed in a jar or paper bag and stir to coat. Do this just before planting.
PROVEN WINNERS
Be careful choosing varieties. It’s easy to be tempted by captivating catalog descriptions for dry or shelling beans, but many of these types can take 80 to 100 days to reach maturity and they would prefer that those days be in a location with mild, comfortable summers, perhaps somewhere in New England. Texas has plenty of mild, comfortable days for sure, but just not in a row in the summertime! For that reason, it’s best to stick with snap varieties that mature in 65–75 days, so harvesting can take place before the summer temperature spikes.
One of the most popular pole varieties is ‘Kentucky Wonder.’ An heirloom that dates back to the 1800s, this bean was also known as ‘Old Homestead’ and ‘Texas Pole,’ so surely it belongs in our Texas gardens. It is an early producer with a hearty, delicious green-bean flavor. The 7–8 inch pods can be mildly stringy, but the flavor is excellent. ‘Kentucky Blue’ is an All-American Selection winner that is an offspring of ‘Kentucky Wonder’ and ‘Blue Lake.’ This early, rust-resistant variety produces round, straight, stringless pods and is better adapted to gardens in the northern half of the state. ‘Rattlesnake’ produces green pods streaked with purple on sturdy, vigorous vines that can grow 8 or 9 feet tall. Be prepared to string this one — the strings are inedible and must be removed before cooking, but it’s a tough plant that tolerates heat and drought, which makes it worth the extra effort. ‘Romano,’ ‘Helda’ and ‘Kwintus’ are broad, flat Italian beans with an excellent nutty flavor and tender pod. ‘Kwintus,’ formerly known as ‘Early Riser,’ is a fast grower, producing pods in 45–55 days. Include a few plants of yellow ‘Marvel of Venice’ and purple ‘Trionfo Violetto’ for a trio of Italian beans.
If big, flat, meaty beans aren’t your cup of tea, try ‘Fortex’ or ‘Emerite.’ Both are early-producing, French filet-types that can be harvested young for slender, straight pods with a sweet green bean flavor. ‘Fortex’ offers good disease resistance and is known for producing tender, stringless pods even up to 8 or 9 inches long. Add some color to the garden with ‘Louisiana Purple Pod,’ a treasured Southern heirloom whose purple stems, flowers and pods stand up pretty well to summer heat. Other popular heirlooms for Texas gardens include ‘McCaslan,’ ‘Garden of Eden’ and ‘Lazy Housewife.’ According to the folks at Seed Savers Exchange, ‘Lazy Housewife’ was introduced around 1810 and was so named because it did not require stringing. I can’t imagine any housewife being referred to as lazy in those days but it makes a good story.
If planted in late August or September, pole beans can also be enjoyed as a fall crop, especially in the lower half of the state where the first frost doesn’t hit until mid- or late November. Quick-maturing selections that are suitable for fall planting include ‘Northeaster,’ ’McCaslan,’ ‘Kwintus’ and ‘Fortex.’ Gardeners in the northern half of the state will likely find more success with bush beans because they reach maturity and produce a concentrated harvest in a shorter time.
LEND YOUR SUPPORT
Now that you know which varieties to plant, you’ll need to prepare a structure for them to climb on. A trellis, a wooden arbor or A-frame, a tomato cage made of concrete reinforcing wire, metal fencing, bamboo poles and wooden stakes are all excellent options. A bamboo teepee is inexpensive and easy to make. Tie several poles together (they can be as tall as you can handle, but at least 5 feet). Use rope or wire to secure the poles at the top and spread them out in tepee-form, pushing each pole into the soil. I also like to anchor my teepees to a stake in the center of the structure. To do this, pound a tall metal stake into the ground where the center of the structure will be. Then wrap a long length of rope or wire securely to the top of the poles and let it hang down. After setting the poles in the ground, attach the center rope or wire to the stake inside the teepee. Make sure it is taut and securely attached to the stake. Plant 3 or 4 seeds at the base of each pole and allow at least 3 feet between each bean teepee for adequate air circulation and easy access when harvesting your bounty.
HARVEST AND PREPARATION
Green beans will have better flavor, fewer strings and more snap if harvested at the right stage of maturity, before the pods begin to swell. Once your plants start to produce, it is important to harvest pods every few days to encourage continual production. Some of the round, smooth varieties, like ‘Emerite’ and ‘Fortex,’ have less fiber and are excellent when steamed or sautéed and simply topped with a pat of butter, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon. ‘Kentucky Wonder,’ ’Kentucky Blue’ and ‘Romano’ are noted varieties for canning and freezing. Because many pole beans have thicker, tougher pods than bush beans, Southerners are accustomed to cooking them slowly in a pork-enriched broth, often with a few new potatoes thrown in for good measure. This time-honored method turns beans that are sometimes tough and fibrous into beans that are tender and flavorful. And if you come across any swollen, past-their-prime pods hiding among the foliage, bring them to the kitchen for a snack. According to heirloom vegetables historians, American Indians would customarily harvest beans at the plump shell stage, boil the pods and pull them between their teeth to release the succulent bean inside — a technique that still works for us today!
